Underpainting

Applying contour, blush, and highlight underneath foundation for a seamless, natural blend.

Underpainting is a reverse-layering complexion technique where cream contour, blush, and highlighter are applied directly to bare skin before foundation. Popularized by celebrity makeup artists for red carpets, this method uses a final veil of sheer foundation to diffuse the vibrant pigments underneath. The result is a soft-focus, lit-from-within glow that looks seamlessly sculpted rather than heavily contoured.

To create underpainting, start by applying cream contour, vibrant blush, and brightening concealer to bare skin to establish your facial structure. Next, take a sheer liquid foundation and gently stipple it over the entire face. This reverse-layering method diffuses the bold pigments underneath, resulting in a seamlessly sculpted, natural finish.

Face/Base Natural Seamless Universal Photography

~12 min 4 steps 8 products

The Kit

Cool-Toned Cream Contour
Damp Makeup Sponge
Vibrant Cream Blush
Liquid Highlighter
Medium-Coverage Liquid Concealer
Small Fluffy Brush
Sheer Liquid Foundation
Large Fluffy Brush

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How to Create Underpainting

Apply Cream Contour

Apply a cool-toned cream contour to the hollows of your cheeks, jawline, and the perimeter of your forehead. Blend the edges slightly with a damp makeup sponge to establish your facial structure.
Add Cream Color

Stipple a vibrant cream blush onto your cheekbones and tap a liquid highlighter onto the highest points of your cheeks. Leave the pigment slightly intense, as the top layer of makeup will soften it.
Brighten With Concealer

Dab a medium-coverage liquid concealer under your eyes, down the bridge of your nose, and on the center of your forehead. Buff the concealer outwards using a small fluffy brush to brighten the center of the face.
Blend Sheer Foundation

Dispense a sheer liquid foundation onto a large fluffy brush and lightly stipple it over your entire face. Gently buff the foundation to diffuse the underlying contour and blush, creating a seamless, dewy finish.

Pro Tips

Do not over-blend the underlying cream contour and blush; they should look slightly intense before you add foundation, as the top layer will sheer them out significantly.
Use a stippling or tapping motion rather than swiping when applying your final layer of foundation to avoid displacing the carefully placed contour and blush beneath.
Opt for a sheer to light coverage foundation or a skin tint as your final layer—using a full-coverage formula will completely hide your underlying hard work.

Common Questions

What is the underpainting makeup technique?

Underpainting is a reverse-layering method where cream contour, blush, and concealer are applied to the face prior to foundation. Applying a sheer foundation over these vibrant pigments creates a soft, natural, lit-from-within finish.

What products do I need for underpainting?

You will need highly pigmented cream or liquid contour, blush, and concealer, along with a sheer or light-medium coverage liquid foundation. Avoid powder products for the underlying layers, as they will turn muddy when liquid foundation is applied on top.

Is underpainting good for beginners?

Yes, underpainting is surprisingly beginner-friendly despite its intricate appearance. Because the final layer of sheer foundation softens and diffuses the colors beneath it, it is actually more forgiving of heavy-handed contour or blush application than traditional methods.

What is the difference between underpainting and traditional contouring?

Traditional contouring applies sculpting shades over foundation, which can sometimes look harsh or visible in natural light. Underpainting places the structure beneath the foundation, acting as a veil that diffuses the makeup for a much more natural, seamless integration with the skin.

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